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Monthly Archives: October 2014

A big north swell arrived last Thursday. Multiple peaks breaking left and right with a slight offshore breeze. With the start of the north swells comes cooler temperatures. The water temp is still warm, but no more sweaty nights. Anyways, here is a local ripper Martin dropping into a big right bomb. My friend Emilia was kind enough to volunteer to take photos with my camera so I could get some shots of myself surfing. All the shots in this entry were take by Emilia Cagnoni

A big north swell arrived last Thursday. Multiple peaks breaking left and right with a slight offshore breeze. With the start of the north swells comes cooler temperatures. The water temp is still warm, but no more sweaty nights. Anyways, here is a local ripper Martin dropping into a big right bomb. My friend Emilia was kind enough to volunteer to take photos with my camera so I could get some shots of myself surfing. All the shots in this entry were take by Emilia Cagnoni

This was my first wave that morning. It was a big left coming right to me. I called this dude out of the wave cause I believed he was going to drop in on me. The slight hesitation caused me to be just a little late. You can see my trying to push my board under the lip of the wave in this shot.

This was my first wave that morning. It was a big left coming right to me. I called this dude out of the wave cause I believed he was going to drop in on me. The slight hesitation caused me to be just a little late. You can see my trying to push my board under the lip of the wave in this shot.

This is me going backwards over the falls of the wave. This is a bad spot to be in especially since the wave is breaking in shallow water covering a pile of basketball-sized rocks. There is a short feeling of calm weightlessness before the violent punishment of the impact zone. That shook the cobwebs out of my sleepy mind.

This is me going backwards over the falls of the wave. This is a bad spot to be in especially since the wave is breaking in shallow water covering a pile of basketball-sized rocks. There is a short feeling of calm weightlessness before the violent punishment of the impact zone. That shook the cobwebs out of my sleepy mind.

My next wave was another last second air drop, that I was just barely able to keep the nose of the board above the surface of the water barely avoiding doing a superman dive.

My next wave was another last second air drop, that I was just barely able to keep the nose of the board above the surface of the water barely avoiding doing a superman dive.

Later on I dropped into this monster. Had I been a better surfer, I would have been up underneath the lip of this wave getting barreled. As it is, I swung my bottom turn to deep. I was able to get around this section and set myself up for a nice ride. Had this been a hollower wave I would have been destroyed.

Later on I dropped into this monster. Had I been a better surfer, I would have been up underneath the lip of this wave getting barreled. As it is, I swung my bottom turn to deep. I was able to get around this section and set myself up for a nice ride. Had this been a hollower wave I would have been destroyed.

My last wave that morning was a fast right that took me across the whole beach.

My last wave that morning was a fast right that took me across the whole beach.

It is definitely paradise here, but you can still see signs of the hurricane. It is so nice to have someone take photos of me. Usually I am behind the lens. Thank you Emilia for the photos. She also got some good shots of some local rippers.

It is definitely paradise here, but you can still see signs of the hurricane. It is so nice to have someone take photos of me. Usually I am behind the lens. Thank you Emilia for the photos. She also got some good shots of some local rippers.

This is probably my favorite shot from the whole day. This is Martin dropping in on a really pretty wave. The morning light sets it off nicely.

This is probably my favorite shot from the whole day. This is Martin dropping in on a really pretty wave. The morning light sets it off nicely.

Here is another very dynamic shot of Martin doing an off the top turn.

Here is another very dynamic shot of Martin doing an off the top turn.

Here is my friend Carlos dropping in on a big bombing right.

Here is my friend Carlos dropping in on a big bombing right.

Here is another shot of Carlos stalling it up to get barreled on this left.

Here is another shot of Carlos stalling it up to get barreled on this left.

This is Stosh. His sister was filming him this day. Stosh was catching left after left and landing huge Arial maneuvers. I am sure they got a ton of great footage that day.

This is Stosh. His sister was filming him this day. Stosh was catching left after left and landing huge Arial maneuvers. I am sure they got a ton of great footage that day.

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Another beautiful baja sunset.

Another beautiful baja sunset.

1.1.This is the farm that I have started taking care of after the hurricane. What you are looking at is the outdoor kitchen. There used to be a pallapa above the table in the center of the photo. The storm blew it down. That is what those posts in the foreground are from.

This is the farm that I have started taking care of after the hurricane. What you are looking at is the outdoor kitchen. There used to be a pallapa above the table in the center of the photo. The storm blew it down. That is what those posts in the foreground are from.

1This panoramic shot was taken from up on the hill that is above the farm. The farm is in the lower right quarter of the photo. They grow coconut, papaya, and lime trees on the property, and the rest is unplanted. The growing season is starting right now here. From this photo you can see how close it is to the ocean. On this particular day I could here the waves exploding on the beach all night, and from the hilltop I could see glassy barrels down on the beach. I decided to grab my board and go check it out.

This panoramic shot was taken from up on the hill that is above the farm. The farm is in the lower right quarter of the photo. They grow coconut, papaya, and lime trees on the property, and the rest is not planted. The growing season is starting right now here. From this photo you can see how close it is to the ocean. On this particular day I could here the waves exploding on the beach all night, and from the hilltop I could see glassy barrels down on the beach. I decided to grab my board and go check it out.

2When I got there my friends Carlos and Tacho were already out, and it was big. They were the first ones out that morning. This spot reminds me of the north shore of Oahu, only with no one there. Here is Carlos paddling alone out into the lineup.

When I got there my friends Carlos and Tacho were already out, and it was big. They were the first ones out that morning. This spot reminds me of the north shore of Oahu, only with no one there. Here is Carlos paddling alone out into the lineup.

1. This is a sequence from the first wave he dropped into. The waves here are top to bottom so you usually need to make an airdrop if you want to catch the wave. Carlos makes the drop into this 12 foot tube.

1. This is a sequence from the first wave he dropped into. The waves here are top to bottom so you usually need to make an airdrop if you want to catch the wave. Carlos makes the drop into this 12 foot tube.

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1. Tacho takes the prize for biggest wave of the day dropping into this bomb.

1. Tacho takes the prize for biggest wave of the day dropping into this bomb.

2. This wave looks to me like something from Tahiti.

2. This wave looks to me like something from Tahiti.

1. Here is another sequence of Carlos on a huge wave.

1. Here is another sequence of Carlos on a huge wave.

2. I have a lot of shots of Carlos getting barreled, but those are not the most interesting photos because all you see is the wave. You cannot see the surfer, so you have no way of judging the size of the wave, or even if there is a surfer in it. In this photo you can just see the tip of his board.

2. I have a lot of shots of Carlos getting barreled, but those are not the most interesting photos because all you see is the wave. You cannot see the surfer, so you have no way of judging the size of the wave, or even if there is a surfer in it. In this photo you can just see the tip of his board.

3. After getting barreled he launches into a huge air.

3. After getting barreled he launches into a huge air.

4. What an epic wave. He drops into a huge top to bottom wave, gets barreled, and the launches into a huge 360 air. Any one of those things would be an all time best for me, and Carlos is doing this every day.

4. What an epic wave. He drops into a huge top to bottom wave, gets barreled, and the launches into a huge 360 air. Any one of those things would be an all time best for me, and Carlos is doing this every day.

After surfing we go to the skate park to eat some carne asada, have a beer, and check out the photos of the days surf. The park is huge. I have never seen a park this size.

After surfing we go to the skate park to eat some carne asada, have a beer, and check out the photos of the days surf. The park is huge. I have never seen a park this size.

Here Manuel is dropping into the 12 foot bowl. There is an extra 4 feet of drop around the corner.

Here Manuel is dropping into the 12 foot bowl. There is an extra 4 feet of drop around the corner.

Here he is getting vertical in the 360 bowl. So in conclusion, if you want to surf 12 foot barrels by yourself, or would like to skate the largest park I have ever seen by yourself, all you have to do is find your way to this secret spot.

Here he is getting vertical in the 360 bowl. So in conclusion, if you want to surf 12 foot barrels by yourself, or would like to skate the largest park I have ever seen by yourself, all you have to do is find your way to this secret spot.