The north swells are starting to hit southern Baja
A big north swell arrived last Thursday. Multiple peaks breaking left and right with a slight offshore breeze. With the start of the north swells comes cooler temperatures. The water temp is still warm, but no more sweaty nights. Anyways, here is a local ripper Martin dropping into a big right bomb. My friend Emilia was kind enough to volunteer to take photos with my camera so I could get some shots of myself surfing. All the shots in this entry were take by Emilia Cagnoni
This was my first wave that morning. It was a big left coming right to me. I called this dude out of the wave cause I believed he was going to drop in on me. The slight hesitation caused me to be just a little late. You can see my trying to push my board under the lip of the wave in this shot.
This is me going backwards over the falls of the wave. This is a bad spot to be in especially since the wave is breaking in shallow water covering a pile of basketball-sized rocks. There is a short feeling of calm weightlessness before the violent punishment of the impact zone. That shook the cobwebs out of my sleepy mind.
My next wave was another last second air drop, that I was just barely able to keep the nose of the board above the surface of the water barely avoiding doing a superman dive.
Later on I dropped into this monster. Had I been a better surfer, I would have been up underneath the lip of this wave getting barreled. As it is, I swung my bottom turn to deep. I was able to get around this section and set myself up for a nice ride. Had this been a hollower wave I would have been destroyed.
My last wave that morning was a fast right that took me across the whole beach.
It is definitely paradise here, but you can still see signs of the hurricane. It is so nice to have someone take photos of me. Usually I am behind the lens. Thank you Emilia for the photos. She also got some good shots of some local rippers.
This is probably my favorite shot from the whole day. This is Martin dropping in on a really pretty wave. The morning light sets it off nicely.
Here is another very dynamic shot of Martin doing an off the top turn.
Here is my friend Carlos dropping in on a big bombing right.
Here is another shot of Carlos stalling it up to get barreled on this left.
This is Stosh. His sister was filming him this day. Stosh was catching left after left and landing huge Arial maneuvers. I am sure they got a ton of great footage that day.
Another beautiful baja sunset.